Pian del Tivano (also known as Piano del Tivano or Piani del Tivano) is a flat area at an altitude of 1,000 meters in the province of Como.
It lies between the Colma di Sormano and Lake Como, in the center of the Larian triangle
It is famous for being the starting point for climbing Mt. San Primo.
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How to get to Pian del Tivano
The Pian del Tivano includes the municipalities of Nesso, Zelbio and Sormano.
To get there from Milan, you can take the SS36 of Lake Como and Spluga to Annone Brianza, between the provinces of Como and Lecco.
From here, you can continue north to Sormano. You will have to pass through several small villages so our advice is to set your navigator to avoid getting stuck between various one-way directions.
From Sormano, the paved road climbs until it passes the Colma and arrives at Pian del Tivano.
Cross-country skiing at Pian del Tivano
Given that Pian del Tivano is located at a rather low altitude, it is not every year that cross-country skiing trails can be opened, even considering that there is no artificial snowmaking system.
However, when the winter season offers plenty of snow, the cross-country ski trail at Pian del Tivano is a loop of about 5 kilometers that runs all around the plateau and allows you to enjoy the wonderful views of the mountains.
For information on the condition of the track, the only way is to contact the Sci Club Sormano, which also runs the ski rental center and sells the ticket to access the track.
Cross-country skiing at Pian del Tivano
Trails for real hikers at Pian del Tivano
The trails starting at Pian del Tivano, being of intermediate level, are suitable for those who are already somewhat trained and require a minimum of equipment.
Hiking shoes or hiking boots and walking poles are essential to follow the trails and enjoy the views safely.
Pian del Tivano Ring - Veleso - Zelbio
A 7.5-kilometer loop trail that starts from the Piano del Tivano at an elevation of 987 meters and is completed in about an hour and a quarter.
Starting from the Pian del Tivano you must incline to the right on Via Battista Longoni beginning your ascent. The initial part is a paved road with no sidewalk so you have to watch out for cars, especially near the pairs of hairpin bends going up the mountain.
We always recommend walking single file on the side of the road and trying to stay on the outer side of the bends as much as possible, keeping the children in front of you and never losing sight of them.
After about two kilometers, passing the highest point of the route at 1,085 meters above sea level, the road becomes a dirt path that enters the forest and continues in a peaceful and quiet atmosphere toward the town of Veleso.
From Veleso, you can follow the provincial road SP44 through the municipality of Zelbio to return to the starting point at Pian del Tivano.
In the municipality of Zelbio you can make a small detour to take a picture of Big Bench nr.185, one of the panoramic giant benches of the Big Bench project.
The only more technically challenging part of this loop trail is the dirt section leading up to Veleso while the rest of the road is paved but also quite busy, especially on Sundays, holidays and at "rush" times when people are going to and from work so it is important to be careful.
A view of the Pian del Tivano
Ascent to Mount San Primo from the Pian del Tivano
Starting from the cross-country ski trails at Pian del Tivano, you can climb to the summit of Mt. San Primo, 1,682 meters above sea level in about two hours. Caution: the route is quite challenging.
Starting from the restaurants near the cross-country ski trails, you must descend toward Nesso to a junction where you will find signs for Monti di Là and Monte San Primo.
Take the road to the right and you will arrive at Monti di Là. From here you will find the signs for Monte San Primo: for the first twenty minutes or so of the walk the climb is moderate and takes place in the woods, after that the landscape opens up completely and the path becomes much steeper and more challenging, following the crest of the mountain.
The summit cross is always clearly visible from the start so you only need to take it as a reference point to get to the top, while enjoying the view of the spectacular landscape below you.
To descend you can retrace the trail backwards or choose the loop from the Sormano ridge, which passes through Alpe di Torno and takes you back to Pian del Tivano in about an hour and a half.
Mount San Primo seen from the Pian del Tivano
Exploring the caves at Pian del Tivano
The area of Pian del Tivano is particularly interesting geologically. It is a karst area that developed gradually through the accumulation of glacier-borne debris on mainly limestone soil.
For this reason, Pian del Tivano is dotted with holes in the ground and caves that are, however, accessible only with the right equipment.
In fact, the caves of Pian del Tivano are very spectacular but also technically complex, and there are no tourist routes to visit them.
To explore the caves, the advice is to contact an experienced caving guide who can support you through the various stages of the route.
Among the most famous caves is the Bus de la Niccolina, which is the main water swallowhole in the area and before modern refrigerators was used by local people to store meat and dairy products at a controlled temperature.
Due to frequent collapses, however, a legend also arose of a witch who inhabits it and destroys supplies and traps those who enter.
This area is also home to the Nosè Valley Complex, which is the largest karst cave system in Italy.
The karst caves at Pian Del Tivano
A trip to the astronomical observatory in Sormano
In 2023, theSormano Astronomical Observatory turned 30 years old and continues to conduct research on asteroids and comets, as well as organizing day and night events to observe the sky and popularize science.
The observatory is surrounded by greenery, at 1,128 meters above sea level and far from the city's light pollution, between Mount San Primo and Mount Palanzone.
You can visit the observatory one Sunday a month, on scheduled dates that can be viewed directly on the website, with no need to book in advance. With the exception of the conference room, all the rooms that can be visited are for scientific use, and to ensure the safety of the instrumentation, groups of 10-15 people at a time are organized, guided by an experienced member.
The observatory also organizes special openings during special astronomical events such as the night of San Lorenzo and lunar eclipses.
The address of the observatory is Località Colma del Piano, 22030 Sormano (CO) Italy but to make sure you get there without problems our advice is to enter in the navigator the geographical coordinates that are available on the website or by sending an e-mail to info@osservatoriosormano.it.
The Sormano observatory with the dome protecting the telescope
Refuges and restaurants at Pian del Tivano
No trip to Pian del Tivano is complete without a typical lunch in one of the restaurants or refuges that overlook the panorama of the surrounding mountains and beautiful Lake Como
Binda Farmhouse
In the heart of Pian del Tivano,Agriturismo Binda has become over the years the reference point for all hikers who want to venture into this magnificent area and for tourists who on Sundays want to escape the city and take refuge in a quiet place surrounded by greenery and mountains.
Customers' favorite dishes are the charcuterie and cheese boards typical of the area and the polenta crostone with lard. A must try if you decide to stop for lunch.
Tables are located in both the outdoor veranda and the indoor dining room, and if you have particular preferences, we recommend making a reservation because, especially on holidays, the restaurant is very crowded.
Getting there: Via Piano del Tivano, 6, 22030 Sormano.
Phone: +39 031 677057
Agriturismo Binda
Alpetto di Torno
Alpetto di Torno is a mountain hut at 1,124 meters above sea level, along the trail from Pian del Tivano to the summit of Mt. San Primo.
The building has recently been renovated and, like any self-respecting mountain hut, in addition to a restaurant offering typical cuisine also provides its guests with rooms to spend the night in a magical place, away from everything and everyone, away from the lights and noise of the city to enjoy 100% of nature and a fairytale starry sky.
The refuge's cuisine follows the rhythm of the seasons: the aromatic and medicinal herbs that grow in the surrounding woods and meadows are the protagonists of the dishes strictly following traditional recipes.
A must-try: risotto with bear garlic and spätzle with nettles, taleggio cheese and flaxseed.
To get there: Locality Pian del Tivano, 22030 Sormano.
Phone: +39 347 9190505
The facade of the Alpetto refuge in Torno
Poldo Restaurant
Poldo Restaurant is located at an altitude of 1,000 meters in Pian del Tivano, surrounded by nature and calm, with pastures and woods. It has a large indoor dining room and anequipped outdoor area, perfect for dining in the summer months, amidst green spaces where you can relax, sunbathe on the lounge chairs available to customers and let the children play.
It is a great starting point for exploring the famous Mount San Primo, taking a trip to the Sormano Observatory, or simply taking nice walks in the greenery. During the winter, right in front of the restaurant passes the cross-country ski trail.
Be sure to try: polenta with game, cheeses from local farms and homemade desserts.
To get there: Locality Pian del Tivano, 22030 Sormano.
Phone: +39 031 677 079
The indoor dining room of the Poldo restaurant
Minister
The Bar Pizzeria Ristorante Nuovo Ministro has been family-owned for no less than four generations and over the years has become a true landmark for hikers and local residents. It is also a tobacconist's store and a point of sale for honey and jams produced in the area, and it allows apartments to be rented for shorter or longer vacation periods.
The restaurant offers typical mountain home cooking such as the inevitable pizzoccheri and polenta served with gorgonzola cheese.
For those who choose to stop for lunch or a snack at the bar, the owners provide lounge chairs to relax in the greenery and breathe in the good mountain air.
Choose well on which day to stop at the restaurant Minister: if you want to eat in the outdoor area, the advice is to choose a weekday because on Saturdays and Sundays service is only provided in the indoor dining rooms.
To get there: Locality Pian del Tivano 20, 22030 Sormano.
Phone: +39 031 667058
Minister: the bar, restaurant and pizzeria at Pian del Tivano
Conclusion
The Pian del Tivano is an oasis of peace not far from the city, where you can live at the pace of the mountains and nature, in summer and winter, and enjoy good food for a family outing.
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