Val di Mello: The complete guide to Lombardy's largest nature reserve

17 September 2024 • 13 minutes read

Val di Mello is an area that is still little known but offers so much excitement: from flat walks suitable for everyone to rock climbing, there is something for everyone in Val di Mello.

Where it is located and how to get to Val di Mello

Val di Mello is located in Lombardy, in the province of Sondrio, at the end of Val Masino, on the northern side of Valtellina.

To get there, you have to drive along the SS 36 state road from Lecco to Colico following the eastern shore of Lake Como.

When you get to Colico you have to continue through Valtellina towards Sondrio and, once you have passed Morbegno, another beautiful town worth a visit, take a detour to the left into the area of Ardenno, following the signs for Val Masino. After about 15 kilometers you will arrive in the municipality of Val Masino, in the locality of San Martino.

This is your starting point.

Local administrations are very strict about car access to Val di Mello and only 40 vehicles are allowed per day, with a small parking pass that costs 10 euros and must be purchased directly in the village, at theSan Martino Info Point located on Via Provinciale. To contact the Info Point you can call 334 39 99 708 from 9 a.m. to noon, or email info@valmasino.info.

The Info Point in the locality of San Martino

Park in the locality of San Martino, in an hourly zone where the cost is 7 euros for the whole day (recommendation: bring coin for the parking meter because although credit cards are accepted, the system does not always work) and start your walk that in about twenty minutes will take you to the beginning of the valley where you can begin your walk.

If you prefer to move by public transportation, the best option is to take a train on the Milan-Lecco-Sondrio-Tirano route, get off at Morbegno station, and then take a bus to Val di Mello. Trains leave at twenty minutes of every hour from Milano Centrale station.

Trekking and walking

Val di Mello is rather small and flat, the main trail does not require any particular athletic training and is suitable for everyone, even families with small children because the path is wide and beaten enough to be walked quite easily.

However, if you prefer to follow more challenging and uphill trails, our advice is to bring a baby carrier backpack for younger children.

The valley is covered from start to finish in an hour and a half, with practically no elevation gain; if you start from one of the parking lots in San Martino, you have to add another half hour to your calculation to get to the mouth of the valley and just as much time to get back to the car.

Follow the valley's central trail along the Mello stream, and as the scenery closes in between towering trees on either side of the walk, you'll encounter waterfalls and alpine lakes.

It is precisely when the lakes are encountered that the view opens up to postcard-perfect scenery, with the forests reflecting on the crystalline surface of the water that turns from turquoise to emerald green.

Continuing down the valley, the trees give way to rock faces where on clear days it is not uncommon to see roped clim bers challenging the mountain.

Val di Mello in autumn, with its rock walls dominating the landscape

Next, past the last group of huts in the Rasica locality, the trail returns to the interior of the forest and begins to climb among large rocky boulders until it reaches the end of Val di Mello, near the small bridge over the Torrone stream and the Chiusa waterfall. The climb continues steeper, still among the trees, following the lower limit of the Oasis Plaques, a rock face for climbing enthusiasts.

For those who want to continue, you can climb further by following a winding path that leads up to theAlpe Pioda pastures where you can see a spectacular panorama overlooking the entire valley.

To go back, you will have to retrace the road you followed back to the Rasica locality and at here, having crossed a small bridge, you can return to the beginning of the valley by skirting the river from the opposite bank to that of the outward journey, thus completing the small loop trail that runs through the valley.

What to see in Val di Mello: points of interest not to be missed

Val di Mello is full of natural wonders and small picturesque places that you will encounter during your walk. Here are the ones not to be missed:

The Contessa's Bidet

The Bidet della Contessa is perhaps the most famous and most photographed point of interest in the entire valley; it is a small alpine lake with crystal clear waters that take on turquoise and emerald tones due to nature's reflection on the surface.

With the arrival of autumn, the green of the forests gives way to the colors of the earth and leaves as they prepare for the cold season, and the lake area takes on a mystical and evocative atmosphere, with the logs of the islet in the middle of the body of water emerging from the lake and the morning mist.

The BIdet Della Contessa is one of the most photographed places in Val di Mello

Iron Falls

The Ferro Water fall is the first one you will encounter as you enter Val di Mello; it collects the waters of the Val di Ferro, which is on your left if you choose to start from San Martino. Along the way, you will have to make a detour to the left after Ca' di Rogni; you will reach the waterfall in about fifteen minutes.

The entire waterfall consists of four jumps totaling 210 meters along a granite wall, and the water flow is usually much greater in the spring while it is smaller in the fall.

One of the four jumps of the Iron Waterfall

Qualido Pond

The Qualido Pond has the distinction of being extraordinarily recent, as it was formed only in 2009, after a landslide broke off from the mountain and partially blocked the course of the Mello stream.

It is a popular place for tourists, who especially in summer come to cool off after a long walk in the valley. Bathing in the pond is allowed although, being an alpine lake, the water is definitely very cold.

Its special feature is the totally transparent water that reflects the colors of the trees that surround its shores, giving it the appearance of a precious gem, especially when the sun hits the small ripples on the surface and makes them sparkle.

The Qualido Pond where the more daring take a swim in the cold mountain water.

Cascina Piana

CascinaPiana is the largest group of huts in Val di Mello, forming a small village where you can fill your water bottles with drinking water directly at the drinking fountain and where you will find shelters where you can eat and stay for the night.

It is an ideal place to stop during your walk, whether you want a hot dish or prefer to have a picnic while admiring the granite walls that surround the area and the sportsmen and women roped up climbing.

The enchanted scenery of the Cascina Piana resort after a snowfall

Quad & ATV excursion in Valtellina

Sondrio (undefined), Lombardy

From 70€

Vacation in Val di Mello: where to eat

During your hike in Val di Mello you can choose several places to stop and refresh yourself.

Trattoria Il Gatto Rosso

At the mouth of the valley, in the village of Ca' Panscer is the Trattoria Il Gatto Rosso where you can have a hearty breakfast before setting out or enjoy a well-deserved lunch after your walk or climb.

Specialties to try are Val di Mello gnocchetti, Valtellina pizzoccheri, sciatt on a bed of chicory, and buckwheat crespelle with bitto.

Trattoria Il Gatto Rosso has a beautiful veranda where you can enjoy the view of the mountains

Rifugio Mello and Rifugio Luna Nascente

At Cascina Piana you will find two refuges, Rifugio Mello and Rifugio Luna Nascente, where you can taste traditional Valtellina dishes as well as wines such as Sassella, Inferno, Grumello and Sforzato, which are inevitable in the cellars of refuges in the area.

Both refuges are in typical constructions of the area, made with the materials that the mountain provided for the inhabitants: rock and wood for the walls and roof, larch plants for tables and benches.

The Mello Refuge

Rasega Refuge

At the bottom of the valley, in the Rasega locality is the Rasega Refuge. It is the last hut in the valley and is located on the outside of a group of huts that also marks the end of the flat trail and the beginning of the ascent to Alpe Pioda.

Guests have greatly appreciated it for its extraordinarily light and not very "greasy" cuisine, considering the amount of butter typical of traditional Valtellina cooking, and for its extraordinary raspberry tart. If you choose to have lunch at the Rasega hut, you absolutely must try it.

The Rasega Refuge

Where to sleep in Val di Mello

The Mello and Luna Nascente refuges also offer their guests the opportunity to spend the night living the mountain experience 100%. In addition to private rooms with bathrooms, like a real hotel, and dormitories with bunk beds in full alpine style, you can choose to live two unique experiences:

the Mello hut provides camping tents, pitches, mattresses and pillows to spend a night under the stars
the Luna Nascente hut allows its guests to sleep in real huts converted into guest rooms with bunk beds and on lofts

You can also choose to spend the night at a campsite in Val di Mello, either with a tent or with a minivan or camper: Ground Jack Camping is located at the beginning of the valley and is open from Easter to November, while Lo Scoiattolo Camping is located in the Bregnolana locality in Val Masino, not far from the Bagni di Masino forest and Val di Mello

If you are a photography or astronomy enthusiast, this is your once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to take wonderful photos of the starry sky in an area where light pollution is kept to a minimum and it is possible to see the stars of the Milky Way clearly.

The lodges where guests of the Rifugio Luna Nascente can stay.

Sport climbing: an adrenaline sport for the brave

All along the valley there are giant boulders that make Val di Mello an excellent climbing gym suitable for children, but also dozens of routes suitable only for experienced athletes because of their level of difficulty.

In Val di Mello, in fact, climbing is mostly done adherently on granite walls and there are no pre-equipped routes, but it is precisely this aspect that makes this area an elite destination for all enthusiasts.

Some of the most famous and iconic routes in Val di Mello are:

Precipice of the Asteroids: this is a 550-meter long wall exposed completely to the south
Oasis Plaques: a variation of the Men and Mice route, it develops for 40 meters exposed to the south
Silver Trapezium: 130-meter development, exposed to the south
Abode of the Gods: has a development of 200 meters and its exposure varies as the climbing route is on a rock face that is climbed by moving up several slopes

Val di Mello is also a climbers' paradise thanks to its granite walls

Hiking in Val di Mello: essential equipment

If you are preparing your hike in Val di Mello, remember to bring with you:

hiking or trail shoes if you plan to follow only the flat trail, hiking boots if you want to hike up to Alpe Pioda instead
comfortable, breathable clothing that does not restrict your movements to make any complex passages easier and to keep you from sweating too much during the hike
k-way or raincoat in case of sudden downpours: the weather changes very quickly in the mountains!
snacks and energy drinks or juices to replenish energy during the hike. Take them with you even if you plan to stop for lunch at a hut; it is better to have them and not use them than to find yourself with hunger pangs halfway through the hike
in summer if you don't fear the cold, bring a bathing suit and towel for swimming in the ponds
baby carrier backpack for unpaved or steeper areas if you have a small child

Dogs are allowed in the Val di Mello reserve, but always keep in mind that this is a grazing area and therefore you are very likely to encounter free-roaming animals such as cows and calves but also herding dogs.

Keep your dog on a leash and close to you atall times and remember to always pick up his or her waste and throw it in the garbage cans: even in a natural environment, they can be very dangerous because the bacteria they contain can make pregnant cows sick. Love for the mountain also means respecting all its inhabitants.

Typical picnic in the vineyard in Valtellina

Bianzone (undefined), Lombardy

From 50€

Conclusion

A trip to Val di Mello is a great opportunity to disconnect from the hustle and bustle of city life and immerse yourself in the beauty and natural heritage of alpine lakes, tall fir forests and near-vertical granite walls that create unique scenery.

A hike in Val di Mello is a sensory experience, an immersion in wild beauty and an encounter with the majesty of nature.